Japan Part 2 – Tokyo, Kanagawa and Hakone

I arrived in Tokyo via bullet train, or Shinkansen, from Kyoto. I had toyed with the idea of taking a more budget-oriented approach towards getting here but I’m glad I didn’t. Seeing the countryside whizzing by me at 170 miles per hour inside my whisper-quiet cabin was an experience in itself, not to mention all the time I saved over taking the much slower, local trains.

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So ¥12,000 and 2 hours later we pulled into Tokyo Station, and I strapped on my backpack and headed out. I felt like a kid again, ready to start his first day at a new school.

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Let’s start things off by exploring the area around Shinagawa.

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This is the north entrance out of the station itself.

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One evening I had decided to go for a walk northeast along the harbor to shoot some of the bridges and overpasses here.

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I forgot to mention this in my Hong Kong post, but I have a funny story regarding the tripod I was using. The tripod I brought with me was a dinky little thing that could barely hold a point and shoot when extended more than a few feet, so when I arrived in Hong Kong ready to do some serious night photography I knew I needed something a little sturdier. I didn’t want to bring my main tripod from home due to its size, but I figured when I was in Hong Kong that I could buy one used from a second hand shop and just sell it back to them before I left, then do the same here in Japan.

Well when searching for my replacement Minolta camera body in Kowloon, I found an awesome new tripod with a removable ball head for only around $40 US. I worked out a deal with the clerk who said I could sell it back to them in two weeks before I left for half that, effectively renting me a really nice tripod for only $20. Well it turns out I didn’t want to get rid of it, so I kept it and brought it with me to Japan, knowing that I’d never find another tripod that nice for anywhere close to that price here.

The funny part is when I tried to bring it on the plane in the HK airport, the girl working security said I couldn’t bring it with me due to it being about two inches too long. I was all set to have her just throw it away and was filling out paperwork to grant them permission to dispose of it when I came up with the best idea I’d had all day. I smiled, unscrewed the 4″ tall ball head and stuffed it in my bag and was on my way. I still have it and use it to this day, and it stands up to the $300 tripod I’ve been using for years.

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This is the Rainbow Bridge that connects the mainland with some of the man-made islands where Tokyo’s ports are located. After I took this picture I was actually feeling a bit tired due to waking up uncharacteristically early, so I laid down on some steps in a small park and took a quick nap. One of the many beautiful things about Japan is the insanely low crime rate. It’s effectively non-existent. I remember reading that my guesthouse in Osaka was in one of the worst areas for crime in all of Japan, yet its crime rate was still less than one half of one percent of that of New York City.

Next up is Asakusa which is one of Tokyo’s more traditional areas, with some temples and shrines scattered about, namely the Senso-ji which I’ll show you in a bit.

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There was an elevated train system running through the middle of Asakusa with tons of little shops, bars and restaurants nestled underneath. It made for some nice cover on this rainy day.

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I peeked in a window to see what appeared to be two butchers portioning out some meat.

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Here’s the Senso-ji temple. It’s one of the main attractions here in Asakusa, and was lined with dozens of little shops selling food and souvenirs.

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I stopped by in the evening as well to get some night pictures of it.

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We’re still in Tokyo however, so a block or two away and you’re right back in the city.

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I didn’t have my tripod on me this night, so it was a miracle I was able to capture anything with 800 speed film and an f/4 lens.

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The first area I stayed in during my time in Tokyo was a guesthouse a few blocks away from the Minami-senju station. It wasn’t too far outside of a few of the busier parts of the city and had really affordable rates by Tokyo standards.

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There was a small cafe near my guesthouse where I ate dinner a few nights. After I snapped this picture of this gentleman he offered me some shochu which I graciously accepted. I had some shochu a few weeks prior while I was out with Haru in Osaka, and the fact that I even knew what it was seemed to impress him and his drinking buddies. It tastes a lot like sake, but unlike sake is usually not made from rice. It’s also distilled instead of brewed and has a (sometimes much) higher alcohol content.

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Next up is Shinjuku, which is probably one of the biggest and most popular sections of Tokyo.

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Although you’d probably never guess it by the last two pictures I posted, Shinjuku is home to the largest and busiest train station in the world. It serves around 3-4 million people per day and has over 200 exits. Yes, 200 subway exits. I got lost in here one night and ended up walking underground in a straight line for a good 25 minutes before I just gave up and went outside. There’s practically an entire city under here.

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One of the big attractions for me in Shinjuku was the Yodobashi camera and electronics superstore. They have these in most of the major cities in Japan, including a few in Tokyo alone, but I believe the one in Shinjuku is the biggest. The store here encompasses several buildings and takes up multiple floors on each. Before I realized this I remember going up and checking out all eight floors in one of the buildings looking for their film section, only to find that they have another separate building entirely just for their film stocks.

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This was my Australian friend Matty trying to communicate with this Japanese woman. She shied away and turned around as soon as I lifted my camera, and he was trying to convince her to let me take her picture. I met Matty in my guesthouse in Yokohama, both of which which I’ll talk more about later.

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On Matty’s last night here we ended up walking around Shinjuku drinking some rather strong alcoholic beverages we kept stocking up on from the nearest convenience stores. Over the course of our festivities we ran into this group of young ladies performing some songs from their band Lovepunk. We ended up talking a bit after their set and Matty and I promised to make them famous on the internet, so here they are. Be sure to check out some of their songs on their Youtube channel. I gotta say, these girls really know how to perform.

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One of my favorite parts of Shinjuku was a nightlife and entertainment area called Kabukicho. I popped into a few bars and cafes here and it was really cool to just walk around and take in the atmosphere.

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There was a small little alleyway near the station which had a lot of little food joints as well.

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Most of these places seemed to specialize in two of Japan’s most popular dishes, gyoza and yakitori. Gyoza is essentially steamed or fried dumplings while yakitori is skewered chicken. The yakitori is much like the satay I had in Malaysia and Thailand, with the main differences probably being the spices and dipping sauces used. Both were of course extremely tasty.

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One thing I sort of regret about my trip here was that I left just a bit too soon. This picture was taken on my last day in Tokyo as the cherry blossoms had just started to bloom. Another week and the entire city would have been full of their beautiful bright pink flowers. There’s always next time I suppose.

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One of the places I had really wanted to visit here in Shinjuku was the New York bar on the 52nd floor of the Park Hyatt hotel.

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In my previous post I had shown you a shrine which was a filming location in the movie Lost in Translation. This bar was also used in the filming of this movie, and was where Bill Murray spent most of his time drowning away his sorrows while overlooking Tokyo. As I had come here on the last day of my trip, I figured I’d join him in spirit for a drink while listening to some lovely jazz and reflecting on what a wonderful time I’d had.

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I also promised a certain someone that I’d include a picture of myself for a change in this blog post, so here I am, messy hair and all.

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I also spent a bit of time in Shinjuku with my medium format camera and tripod.

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I used my color correction filters for many of my night shots. I brought an 80A and 82C with me which I used to balance a lot of the warm artificial lighting found in places like this. I could have probably achieved much of the same effect during scanning, but I like to do as much as I can in-camera instead of just editing it in post. The vast majority of my film workflow is just scanning and resizing, which helped save a bunch of time when coming back from this trip with over 100 rolls of spent film.

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The last place I visited here in Shinjuku was the Government Metropolitan Building. This building has a free observation deck 660 feet up which I visited a couple times.

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The view over the city here was fantastic. I came back at night once but apparently tripods aren’t allowed up top, so I wasn’t really able to get any pictures I’m proud of.

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One day I decided to walk from Shinjuku down to Shibuya, another of Tokyo’s popular districts.

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Along the way I walked through Yoyogi Park which contains the Meiji Shrine. While I was walking around the shrine there seemed to be a bit of commotion, and there were people trying to clear a path through the center. It turns out there was a traditional Japanese Shinto wedding precession taking place. I don’t know how often this sort of thing happens, but I guess I was pretty lucky.

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For a couple hundred Yen you could write down a little prayer on a block of wood and hang it up on a big wall. Some of them were pretty touching.

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As I approached Shibuya I ran into this protest march. I have no idea what they were marching about.

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One of the many things I miss about Japan are all the crazy drinks they have. All the juices, energy drinks and of course the vending machine coffees which I drank every morning. I found a place around where I live that sells the little 6oz Japanese coffee cans but it’s just not the same.

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This is the view of the famous Shibuya intersection from the adjacent Starbucks. It’s not too busy-looking here, but check out this video I took to see what it’s usually like. Nearly every time the light changes, the road turns into a veritable sea of people. Also in the background of that video you can actually hear a guy on the bullhorn from the marchers I mentioned previously.

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Here’s another shot of the intersection, this time at night.

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Shibuya seemed to be one of the more colorful districts of Tokyo.

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I started climbing a few buildings south of the main area in Shibuya to do some rooftop photography, but it started raining out almost immediately so I didn’t get many pictures.

The railway system in Tokyo, by all accounts, is crazy. Actually it’s not as bad as it seems, but take a look at the train maps to get an idea of what I’m talking about.

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On the left is the subway map and on the right is the map for the above-ground trains. Feel free to click on it to get a larger view. Like I said it wasn’t so bad though, after about a week or so I started to figure it out. There are a lot of different lines, and a lot of them are run by different companies which sometimes require separate tickets to make transfers, but there are a few main lines which got me to most of the places I needed to go. Plus, I always kept a copy of these maps in my back pocket so I never really had any problems.

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As I did in the other cities I visited on this trip, I got myself a rechargeable electronic pass card to use for the trains. This way I didn’t have to worry about getting tickets or calculating how much my fare would be. I could just swipe my card and go, recharging it whenever it got low.

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The only problems I did sometimes run into were walking through underground subway stations that obviously weren’t built for someone 6’1 like myself. I don’t think a day went by in Japan when I didn’t hit my head on something.

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The signs were sometimes confusing as well, but most of the important information was often listed in English as well.

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When I was doing research for my trip I had read that it rarely snows in Tokyo. I don’t know how rare exactly, but I remember reading something along the lines of once every 2-4 years. Since I was arriving in late February, I figured the odds of catching a snowy day were pretty slim.

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Imagine my surprise when I wake up one morning to see everything outside my window blanketed in snow. I don’t think I’ve ever gotten out of bed so fast in my life. I think I went from asleep to out the door in about 4 minutes.

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The first thing I did was hit the train station to catch a ride into the city.

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I wasn’t really sure where I wanted to go as I hadn’t planned on anything like this happening. I remembered reading about the Tokyo Imperial Palace located in a huge park in central Tokyo, so I figured that would be a cool place to start.

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Unfortunately what I didn’t find during my limited research of this place was that visitors are not allowed anywhere near it, so this was as close as I could get. Then right as I left it stopped snowing, so I hopped in a nearby Sukiya to warm up and grab some gyudon for lunch. Oh well, it was cool while it lasted.

Next up is an area known as Shinbashi. Looking back, I really wish I spent more time here. On one side it had a really cool ambiance with a lot of small bars and cafes, while a few blocks away was the ultra-modern Shiodome district, full of huge skyscrapers housing some of Japan’s largest corporations.

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Like I said I wish I had spent more time here. While I’m happy with the few pictures I have from Shinbashi, I don’t think they’re really able to recreate the unique atmosphere I’m remembering. You’ll just have to go check it out for yourself I guess.

Before I left for my trip I had heard a lot about Ikebukuro. I had originally planned on spending more time here than I did, but it didn’t really capture my attention as much as I thought it would have.

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The one time I got out and walked around here I ended up feeling a bit underwhelmed and just walked down to Shinjuku.

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These two pictures I thought came out pretty cool though.

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So far on this trip I hadn’t had much luck gaining access to many of the port areas, and I figured Tokyo wouldn’t be any different, but I had to give it a shot anyway.

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A long walk across a few bridges.

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Through a few small commercial centers.

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Bingo.

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I was limited to this one vantage point, but this was the closest I had gotten to a container crane all trip. A few of them were even in action, loading up a ship.

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The next area of Tokyo I visited, Akihabara, was much like Ikebukuro for me. Although this time I was sort of expecting to not spend a lot of time here due to it being geared mainly towards the “otaku” culture, which I think is basically just a term used to describe people who prefer to spend their time playing video games, reading comic books and watching anime over more ‘social’ activities. I’m actually a pretty big fan of the old show Cowboy Bebop myself, but that’s about as far as I’ve gone into that sort of stuff.

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I did stop by a really cool basement-level restaurant for lunch. I had a very awesome bowl of Tekkadon, which is sushi-grade slices of raw tuna over a bowl of sushi rice. There was some other stuff on it too, as well as some pickled ginger and a dollop of wasabi, so it was essentially like a big sushi bowl.

The last place I’m going to bring you from Tokyo before moving on to Hakone and the Kanagawa district south of Tokyo is the observation deck situated atop the Tokyo World Trade Center.

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I got up here just as the sun was setting, and was greeted with the most amazing view of Tokyo I’ve seen yet.

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Click on this pano to check out the higher res version.

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Another shot of yours truly, next to the famous Tokyo Tower.

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I didn’t have my tripod with me once again, but who needs one when you’ve got a 50mm f/1.2 lens.

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Back on the ground I stopped in to a small cafe for some cold soba noodles before heading back the guesthouse for the night.

About halfway through my time spent in Tokyo I met up with my dad who was flying through Narita Airport while on a business trip. He’s more of a nature guy than a big city guy, so we headed out west to a resort town near the base of Mt. Fuji called Hakone. This town is known for its onsens (hot springs) and ryokans (traditional-style hotels), and is a pretty popular vacation spot for Japanese tourists.

One of the first things we did here was visit the sulfur springs of Owakudani. To get there we had to take a train through the woods, up a mountain, hop on a Swiss-made cable car, and then finally catch a gondola ride up to the area where the springs were located.

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It was pretty chilly up here (and a little bit smelly from all the sulfur), but the views were incredible.

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It was a little cloudy around Mt Fuji though so this was the best shot I could get of it.

Another day we took a bus ride out to Lake Ashi and went on a little hike.

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Here you can see the Hakone Shrine, and behind it would normally be a stunning view of Mt Fuji if it weren’t again for the clouds.

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The hike we went on was along the old Tokaido Road, which used to connect Kyoto and Tokyo roughly 300 years ago.

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We didn’t dare venture any further after coming across this alarming sign.

One of the other attractions we visited here was the Hakone Open-Air Sculpture Museum. It was similar to a place we have back home called the DeCordova Sculpture Park, but much bigger and with many more sculptures.

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This is actually the only shot I got of my dad. He’s the one in the sphere with the bright orange shirt.

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Here is probably my best shot from the entire trip.

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The train ride back to the hotel was full of exhausted schoolkids.

After the three days spent out in Hakone with my dad, we took a train back into Tokyo so he could catch a flight back home. After he left I went back down to Yokohama where I had been staying. I was only in my guesthouse in Minami-senju for maybe a week or so. I had wanted to hop down to Yokohama for a few days to check it out and ended up finding an awesome place to stay there called the Kanalian Guesthouse, and since Yokohama was only a 20 minute train ride from Tokyo I just decided to set up camp there for the rest of my trip. It was actually closer to Shinjuku and a lot of other places than my old guesthouse, so it ended up saving me lots of commuting time.

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The taxi stand outside the main Yokohama station.

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The guesthouse was only a 5 or 10 minute walk from there.

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This is Lee, the guesthouse owner, and my Australian buddy Matty. Lee and Matty are just two all-around great guys. I can’t even count the amount cool places Lee brought us out to eat at that we never would have been able to find ourselves. Two of my favorites were an old Japanese curry house he brought us to one night, and then to a place that sells tonkatsu, which is my new favorite thing to eat. Tonkatsu is basically pork cutlets deep-fried in panko, covered in a thick Japanese Worcestershire sauce and then served on a bed of shredded cabbage with a side of daikon radish. If you’re interested in trying this out, which I think you probably should be, the tonkatsu sauce can usually be found in most Asian supermarkets. Just fry up some cutlets and you’re good to go.

Matty is a tattoo artist from Melbourne. He comes to Yokohama every so often to get tattooed by an awesome and very talented artist here, whom he also learns from in order to be able to apply the traditional style of Japanese tattoos to his own work back home. Pretty cool stuff.

One night nearing the end of my stay, I mentioned to Lee that I wanted to eat something called the fugu. The fugu is an infamous blowfish filled with a deadly neurotoxin called tetrodotoxin. Apparently the chefs who prepare the fugu need to be specially trained and go through a rigorous licensing process due to its extremely lethal nature. A single drop of the tetrodotoxin will paralyze anyone who ingests it, starting in the mouth and then extending over the entire body, and eventually paralyzing the diaphragm which leads to death by respiratory failure within a couple of hours. So I think you can understand why I obviously needed to try some before I left.

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So here’s a picture that Lee took of me eating my fugu, which I’m happy to say wasn’t my last. I survived the fugu!

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After our fugu meal, Lee told me that I really needed to try something even better: whale meat. I was still pretty hungry so I figured a nice big whale would certainly hit the spot. We got to this little whale bar that served a few varieties of super-fresh whale. She pointed to the whale chart behind her and asked us which kind we’d like to eat, but I let Lee decide as I’m certainly no expert on the subject.

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I forget which kind we ended up going with, but I remember looking it up on Wikipedia and finding that it wasn’t that endangered, so all you whale rights activists can chill out. It was served raw, with a raw egg yolk mixed in with a little bit of pepper. It was more like eating raw red meat than eating sushi, but the flavor itself was very unique. It definitely wont be the last whale I eat, I can tell you that.

One rainy day in Yokohama I decided to head down south a bit to check out the coastal town of Kamakura. There are a few temples down here, as well as a huge old bronze Buddha. There were also a few nice hiking trails through the small mountains in the area, so I popped on my raincoat and headed down there for the day.

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I think normally the beach here is a pretty big attraction for the locals, but on this rainy March day it was completely empty.

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There were a bunch of mini Buddhas at one of the temples I visited, but they were nothing compared to the Buddha I was about to see.

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Apparently this 43′ tall Buddha is almost 800 years old. They originally spent ten years building a wooden one, which was promptly destroyed by a storm about 4 or 5 years later, so they rebuilt it in bronze and it’s been standing to this day.

Back in Yokohama I spent a night or two wandering around with my tripod taking pictures.

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Yokohama is actually Japan’s second largest city, so even though I was here mainly to commute into Tokyo, there was still plenty to see here in Yokohama itself.

One day Lee let me borrow one of his bikes at the guesthouse and I took it all around the industrial ports in Yokohama.

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I ended up riding around for over 8 hours. I’m pretty sure it gave me a mild case of tendonitis in my palms, as I couldn’t even hold a set of chopsticks for maybe 4 days afterwards.

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It was definitely worth it though.

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So after 3 of the best months of my life it was finally time to go home. As much as I loved every second of this trip, I was definitely looking forward to getting back, sleeping in my own bed and seeing all my friends and family I had been away from for so long. Not to mention finally going over all the pictures I had been taking. The absolute freedom of being on the road is unlike anything else and is truly one of my passions, but the barrage of new and exciting experiences and constant uncertainty can get a bit exhausting after a while. Of course after a few weeks of being back home I wish I was back out traveling again, but for now it was time for this trip to come to an end.

Looking back, it’s hard for me to pick a favorite out of all the places I had been. Every country I visited was so different and had so many awesome experiences to offer. I think one of the most valuable lessons I had learned on this trip though is that it’s not so much the places you go or the things you see, it’s the people you meet along the way. I had spent all my time beforehand planning out all the things I wanted to do, but in the end it’s the things that are impossible to plan which ended up providing me with the fondest memories. I can always go back and see the same buildings, temples, cities and countrysides, but it’s the friendships I’ve formed and memories of the people I met which will be with me forever.

Till next time!

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Japan Part 1 – Osaka, Kobe and Kyoto

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Arriving in Osaka was a very odd experience for me. I had never been to Japan before in my life, however for some strange reason I was hit with a strong and persistent sense of nostalgia. From the moment I stepped off the plane, for the next 24 hours or so I felt like I was revisiting someplace from my distant past. I’ve come to the conclusion that either Osaka is a great representation of what America was like in the late 80s, or I was Japanese in a former life.

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Unfortunately, try as I did, I wasn’t able to really capture these feelings of nostalgia in my photographs. Perhaps that will be a project for another time.

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Off in the distance you can see the historic Osaka Castle. I didn’t take the tour inside, but I did walk around the grounds and it was there that I had my first taste of takoyaki, which I’ll talk about more in a bit.

This night I decided to wander around the area south of my guesthouse to do some exploring.

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About ten minutes into my journey, I met a nice fellow by the name of Haru who lived around the area. He took me to a few of the local drinking spots and we spent the rest of the night taking turns buying each other rounds of Suntory.

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This one particular bar was teeming with old toys and various trinkets. This liquid hourglass captured my attention for quite a while.

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To cap off the night, Haru asked me if I wanted to go to a bar run by a super cute Japanese girl who was a self-proclaimed Ramen expert. Apparently he wasn’t aware of my affinity for Ramen and super cute Japanese girls.

One of the things I really wanted to see here was the Umeda Sky Building. This building was essentially two separate towers joined together at the top by a circular observation deck. For some reason I didn’t take any pictures of the exterior of this building, but this Google Image Search should give you an idea of what I’m talking about. So the nexy day I decided to head on over there with a few friends I met back at my guesthouse to check the place out.

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The two enclosed tubes you see on the bottom are the escalators that take you to and from the observation deck.

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Concrete as far as the eye can see.

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We were getting a little hungry so we went inside to get some coffee and hot dogs at the cafe while we waited for nightfall.

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Click on the pano above to view it in high res.

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If you look closely, you can see a highway tunnel going through one of the buildings on the bottom right there.

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Here’s a closeup. I guess they were building a new elevated highway but the owners of the building didn’t want to sell it, so they compromised and built a tunnel straight through it. Pretty cool if you ask me.

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The next day while eating my instant noodle breakfast I met a lovely young Korean girl named Mia. She had been here on vacation with her friends, but they couldn’t all get a flight home together on the same day so Mia was stuck here alone till the next day and was terrified of leaving the guesthouse for fear of getting lost.

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Being the gentleman that I am, I of course offered to take her out and show her a good time.

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She wanted to stop by a bookstore known for its collection of cheap, used books, so we spent a while in here just perusing their selection.

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We found a takoyaki stand so we stopped in for a quick bite. Takoyaki is essentially fried octopus balls. In the middle is a piece of octopus surrounded by some kind of battered dough, then they’re topped with Japanese mayo, okonomiyaki sauce, then finally nori and fish flakes. Every place makes them a little bit differently, but they’re all pretty tasty.

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We ended up in the popular area of Dotonburi. It was rather quiet that night so we ended up just going for a nice long stroll along the river.

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On the way back to the guesthouse we made a stop in Shinsekai for some kushikatsu, which is basically just deep fried, skewered food served with a Japanese Worcestershire sauce for dipping. You can get anything from chicken, onions, cheese, even ice cream, and again it was all pretty delicious.

After Mia left the next morning I just sorta took the day off. I hopped on the train and wandered around the city a bit but didn’t really have anywhere to go.

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The next day I made my way to the train station to head on over to Kobe for the day. It’s only about a 20 minute train ride from Osaka, so I figured it would make a nice day trip before continuing on to Kyoto.

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The main Osaka Station is really cool too by the way. It was just completely redone less than a year before I was there and if you’re into architecture I’d definitely recommend checking it out.

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Now, the main reason I wanted to come here was to take pictures around the industrial shipping ports, so as soon as I got off the train I headed straight for the harbor. I only brought my medium format rangefinder and a pocket full of Portra with me today, and it was well before noon so I had all day to shoot it.

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I was starting to notice that Japan had a lot of crazy highway systems and junctions. I think when I go back someday I’m going to have to plot out the locations of as many of them as I can and do a little project on them.

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Looking back on this picture I really wish I had waited for a car to go down the ramp. If I could have caught a little white van in that illuminated section in the bottom left I think this picture could have been really great.

At this point I headed over the bridge to Port Island, where a lot of the container terminals were located.

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Luckily I was there on a Saturday so there was nobody around to ask me what I was doing.

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The island wasn’t all just industrial areas though. There are a couple of universities, some hotels, a convention center, even an IKEA.

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And this is the seawall on the island. It’s maybe 15-20 feet tall and covers most of the perimeter to help protect the island in case of a tsunami. Right after I took this picture I noticed a truck driver who had a load full of used cars having some trouble with one of them. The battery was dead and he couldn’t push it off the top of the truck by himself, so I gave him a hand and he rewarded me with a bottle of some tasty vegetable juice.

So after wandering around the ports all day I headed back to my guesthouse in Osaka for one more night before leaving for Kyoto in the morning.

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Kyoto was just another short train ride away, and upon arriving there I began my usual search for accommodations. I had heard about these things called capsule hotels, which are essentially just 1 meter x 1 meter x 2 meter tubes that you rent for the night to sleep in. I ended up finding a relatively cheap one a few blocks away from the main train station, so I booked it for the night and hit the town to see some of Kyoto’s famous temples.

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This is an 80 foot Buddha I found in Eastern Kyoto.

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If you’ve ever seen the movie Lost in Translation, this next shrine may seem a bit familiar.

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This is one of the shrines Scarlett Johansson went to in the movie when she took the day trip out to Kyoto.

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Now, after spending the night in the capsule hotel I needed to find a cheaper alternative. Even a cheap capsule hotel is still expensive by hostel standards. Don’t ask me why. So while I was out in Eastern Kyoto checking out the temples there I booked the next few nights at a hostel in the historical district of Gion.

Gion and Higashiyama are two neighboring districts which retain the old architectural styles of ancient Kyoto. It was really cool walking down all the preserved, historical streets.

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I couldn’t help but laugh a bit at the sign out in front of this shop.

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Here I was able to catch a glimpse of some Geisha walking the street.

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The next day I hopped on a train and headed out to the other end of Kyoto to check out the Golden Pavilion and bamboo grove.

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This is the Kinkakuji, or Golden Pavilion, and is probably the most famous temple in Kyoto. The top two stories are completely covered in real gold leaf.

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Next up is the Bamboo Grove

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Unfortunately it wasn’t very big. I think I walked from one end to the other in about 2 minutes, but it was still pretty cool.

After that, I decided to head up to the Fushimi Inari Taisha. This shrine has a hiking trail out back which ascends up a small mountain and is covered with thousands of large torii gates.

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There were some more smaller shrines along the way as well.

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I ended up stopping in here for some tea before heading back down.

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With all the temples, shrines and beautiful scenery here it’s easy to forget that you’re still in one of Japan’s largest cities. With a population of around 1.5 million, Kyoto is home to more than twice as many people as the city of Boston.

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So after spending around a week and a half over in this part of Japan it was finally time for me to head out to Tokyo. I saved the best for last, so be sure to join me next time for the final installment in my Asian adventure.

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Hong Kong

I had arrived in Hong Kong right around sunset. Now the airport was pretty far from the city, so by the time I had arrived in Mong Kok it was already dark. I’ll never forget stepping off that bus into the streets of Kowloon for the first time; I can only describe the experience as feeling as if I was on a movie set. The narrow streets walled in by towering concrete buildings, thousands of people lit by a sea of neon lights, cars and buses whizzing by on this calm, 70 degree night. It was one of the most surreal things I had ever experienced. My camera had died a few days earlier in Bangkok, but taking pictures was the last thing on my mind. Over the years I’ve found that in times like this, it’s best to just take everything in and live the experience rather than trying to capture it, as no picture I could have taken would be anything close to how I’d remember it.

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Over the next couple weeks I did quite a bit of shooting in Kowloon, so here are a few medium format night shots I took to give you an idea of what it was like.

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It was in a market just like this that the next day I found a used Minolta XG-M in good working order to replace my broken-down X-570. I think I paid around $30 US for it, and brought it into a repair shop on HK Island to make sure it was in good shape before I trusted the rest of my irreplaceable travel pics to it. The place was called Panda Camera at 22 Stanley Street, and I highly recommend it. The light seals were a little dicey, so since I didn’t have time to get the camera repaired, he threw in some black string along the light seal grooves in the back for free and it worked perfectly. In fact, I’m still using it like this today.

So before long, I was wanting to get up high to see this city from some rooftops. I was able to get on top of the building my guesthouse was in rather easily, plus a few other buildings in the area. Honestly, I could have probably spent the entire trip doing this as it didn’t seem like there was much security in most of these places and the views were more than worth the effort. Here’s a sampling of some of my rooftop shots.

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Speaking of my guesthouse, I took a picture of the room I was staying in to give you an idea of what to expect when looking for cheap accommodations in Hong Kong.

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I believe I was paying around $20 a night for this place. While taking that picture I had my back up against the rear window with my head pressed into the corner of the room. The bed was essentially walled-in on all 4 sides, with just a small amount of floor space for the door to open into. Right as you walk into the room there’s a tiny little bathroom that I could barely even stand up in, let alone shower in, but at least I had my own bath. And the Hello Kitty bedsheets were just the icing on the cake. All in all I’d say it was a steal.

I had originally planned to stay in the infamous Chungking Mansions for at least half my stay after watching the movie Chungking Express and hearing so much about it, but after checking it out it appears it had received an extensive facelift. The building itself looked brand new, and even the inside seemed to lack the ambiance that I had been expecting. I ended up having a quick bite to eat in there as I heard they have the area’s best Indian food, but decided that my room in Mong Kok would do just fine for the entirety of my stay.

Back on the street, here are some more shots of Kowloon, this time taken on 35mm.

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A lot of my nights were spent just roaming around, popping in and out of buildings, slinking down random alleys, generally just trying to immerse myself in this gigantic urban expanse. I of course photographed some of the various people I ran into along the way.

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This picture was taken one night walking down what I believe was Portland Street, where they were just cleaning up after what appeared to be a bustling night market.

After getting off at random MRT stops and exploring the different areas of Kowloon, it became apparent that a lot of the city was insanely busy..

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while other parts were oddly calm and relaxing.

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One such place was a Buddhist temple I found in the Diamond Hill area called the Chi Lin Nunnery.

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Across from the nunnery was a huge Zen garden which I was able to wander around in for hours.

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For a while there I completely forgot I was in the middle of one of the largest and busiest cities in the world.

Now, on the complete opposite end of the spectrum, here is a photo series I came here to create. I call this set “Modern Living”.

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One of the areas I spent a night photographing were the Estates in Kowloon Bay. They were built along the side of a hill, so getting nice and high up to photograph them was as easy as a short hike up the sidewalk from the MRT station.

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Be sure to click on that one to check out the higher res version.

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And before we head on over to Hong Kong Island, here are a few more random architecture shots from around Kowloon.

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Separating Kowloon from the newer, more high tech area of the city known as Hong Kong Island is Victoria Harbor. I came down here a couple times for photographs. Once I caught a huge synchronized light show, which used high-powered lasers attached to almost all of the tall buildings across the harbor, as well as multicolored lights on the facades of some of the buildings themselves.

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This night, however, was all fog.

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It was really awesome seeing it creep in over the harbor. The way it would move slowly, enveloping the buildings, slithering around them like a giant, velvet snake. I thought it was cooler than the light show, to be honest.

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Now I’ll bring you over the harbor onto Hong Kong Island. Everything about this place was completely different. While Kowloon was like an old, weathered Chinese city, the Island was more of a modern metropolis. The concrete dwellings were replaced with glass and steel skyscrapers, and the street-side secondhand markets replaced with high-end fashion shops.

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By this point in my trip I had shot roughly 40 rolls of film, so I headed on over to Central where there are a few camera shops and film labs to see if I could get some of it developed. I ended up going with a great lab called Photo Scientific, located at 6 Stanley Street. Their prices were more than reasonable, they did a perfect job as you can see, and they developed, cut and sleeved all 40 rolls in two days. I ended up going back to them before I left to have them develop the rest of my Hong Kong film as well, and they were able to do the remaining 15 or so rolls in about a day. Another highly recommended camera shop.

Here are a few markets I found on the outskirts of the Island that reminded me a bit of old Kowloon.

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The previous three were taken on medium format, and the next few are from the meat and fish markets and were taken on 35mm.

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This lady is the devil. I know they’re just fish, but I sat there and watched her for a good 15 minutes as she seemed to be getting intense pleasure out of torturing them. I’ve seen plenty of fish markets here in Asia by this point, so watching someone chop their heads off or bash them to death or whatever didn’t bother me. It was the way she smiled when she did it. And when there were no customers around she’d take them out of their tanks and just stare at them as they flopped around, unable to breathe.

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On Hong Kong Island there’s a mountain known as Victoria Peak. It’s only 1800 feet so I decided one night to walk up it, and since this is a city and all it’s not like walking through the woods or anything. I pretty much just followed the sidewalk all the way up.

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I started making my way up there just after sunset. Or maybe during, it was so cloudy most of the time I was here it was hard to tell. Anyway, it was almost night.

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I ended up taking the scenic route up to get some pictures of the city, so by the time I finished my ascent it was well into the evening.

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Here’s the view I was rewarded with at the top. The very first image I posted was another shot I took from up here, but this one is a two-shot pano so you can check out the larger version by clicking on it.

I ended up coming up here a couple times, although the second time I decided to take a bus. Here’s what it looks like on a foggy, cloudy day.

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And before we leave the island, here’s a few more shots around the streets of some people and architecture.

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I can really see myself in this Bentley.

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This was kind of a weird one. I was lining up this shot and waiting for him to get to the middle of the frame, and right when he did he stopped, turned, and looked directly at me. He was probably just checking the traffic before crossing, but it still freaked me out a bit.

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On one of the other islands in Hong Kong, Lantau Island, there is a small remote fishing village known as Tai O. I decided to check it out on my last day in Hong Kong, so I hopped on a bus and made the long 2 hour journey to get here.

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It was really cool, all the houses were built on stilts along the bay.

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I pretty much just spent the day wandering around the town taking pictures like I usually do. I didn’t see many people though. They all seemed to be concentrated along the harbor, where all the main tourist stuff was.

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Overall it seemed like a bit of a ghost town. Apparently they don’t really fish anymore and just get all their money from tourism. All the young people move out of the village to live in the city, so now it’s just a bunch of older people living off their retirement and selling trinkets to tourists. It was cool to see, but honestly I probably wouldn’t go back.

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Well that concludes my time spent here in Hong Kong. Whenever I mentioned to people about my plans to come here, a lot of them would ask me “What are you going to do in Hong Kong for two whole weeks?”. I never really knew what to tell them, but I did know that two weeks wouldn’t be nearly enough time, and it wasn’t. I suppose that’s true of most places I go, but there was just something different about Hong Kong that made me not want to leave. I’m sure I’ll be back someday soon, but for now it was time to head to the airport for my flight to Japan.

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Thailand

So after about a 20 hour overnight train ride from Penang, I had arrived in Bangkok. Now, Singapore and Malaysia were hot, but there was just something a little more oppressive about the heat in Bangkok. I had arrived at around 10 AM and I’d soon come to find out that the mornings in Bangkok are incredibly humid, even in January. By around noon though it eased up quite a bit, and by early afternoon the humidity was almost non-existent. Luckily this wasn’t really much of a factor for me after the first day or two as I’m much more of a night person. In fact even while traveling I could probably count the days I was out and about before noon on one hand. On the other hand, getting to bed at 3 or 4 AM was much more likely.

After getting out of the station, I started to make my way to the infamous Khao San Rd with a few new friends I had met on the train. After a relatively short bus ride we found ourselves in the midst of what is apparently party central for backpackers on a budget. We found a couple of rooms pretty quickly for about 7 bucks each (with air conditioning), and spent the next few days generally just lounging around being bums. We did check out a few of the temples in the old town of Bangkok, but public transportation is rather limited in this area so we mostly just hung around Khao San and lived it up amongst the melange of bars, restaurants and massage parlors. This may sound counter intuitive for someone on a budget like myself, but keep in mind that a one hour massage in Bangkok will run you anywhere from 5 to 10 dollars. It wasn’t hard to convince myself to find a way to work them into my daily budget.

There were temples scattered all over the place here in old town. I didn’t end up touring the grounds of the Grand Palace, but there were dozens of other equally impressive temples, or ‘wats’ everywhere you looked. Here are just a few.

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This is a view of the Grand Palace from inside the grounds before the entrance gate. I had planned on going in, but the entrance fee was a little steep (with most of the other temples being free), and they didn’t allow medium format cameras inside, which I found a bit odd.

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As you can see, the other temples were pretty remarkable in and of themselves so I didn’t lose any sleep over skipping the Palace. To be honest, I wasn’t really here to sight see anyway.

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By now I was about ready to leave Khao San. I didn’t really take many pictures here as I was too busy lounging around and living the dream, so I was eager to get out into the real city and start exploring.

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One of the pictures I did end up taking there was this shot of a pregnant woman cooking my $1 pad thai.

At this point, a few of us ended up splitting off to different places, so now it was just Hanna and me left to venture out into Bangkok. Our first order of business was to stop by the downtown area of Silom to try to find a room for the next few nights. After that, we hit the streets and ended up in Bangkok’s Japantown.

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We stopped into this place for some food and ended up talking to a table full of Japanese salary men here on a business trip. When they found out that we had just met a few days earlier, they bought us round after round of what was apparently some very nice Sake. Of course it would have been rude to say no.

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In downtown Bangkok there were some street-side temples open all night, which had a much different atmosphere than the more traditional temples in the old city. There was a really unique vibe here with the mixture of the traditional and the modern that seemed oddly fitting. Buddhism isn’t just a Sunday mass for many of these people, it was a big part of their lives, and whether they were on their way home from work or out shopping with their friends they always had time for a quick prayer or some meditation.

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This night we found a hot pot / shabu shabu all you can eat buffet with sushi and gyoza for only $10 a person. I couldn’t believe how cheap it was, and tasty too.

The next day we decided to hit the streets. Hanna wanted to try to get tickets to a Muay Thai match, so we headed out to the Lumpini area to stop by the ring and see how much they were.

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We didn’t end up getting the tickets, but the area around the stadium turned out to be really interesting.

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There was a big market set up with food stalls and carts everywhere. Just walking around and sampling the different Thai dishes was an experience in itself.

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After spending about a week in Bangkok, Hanna was off to Bali to see some friends, so from here on out I was pretty much on my own. Well, for the next few days, anyway.

On my first day alone I decided to head on out to Chinatown to see what they were doing to set up for the Chinese New Year. There isn’t a train station in Chinatown, so I had to take a stop maybe a mile or two away and hoof it. Along the way I found an area southwest of the Hualumphong train station which I believe is called the Samphanthawong district. From what I understand though, Chinatown also resides in this district, so I don’t know if it has a separate name but it was certainly distinct from the actual Chinatown area.

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Along the river separating the train station from this area were these dilapidated houses that seemed to be just moments from collapsing into the murky water below.

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They actually seemed quite quaint to be honest. Maybe I can pick one up as a summer home someday.

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As I took this picture, the mother in the back seemed to be having a blast. As I smiled and thanked them, she said “He is very handsome boy!”

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This area was filled with auto repair shops and used parts stores. Every other store seemed to specialize in one specific part or another, with mounds and mounds of replacement parts outside their shop.

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This guy was just out back behind his restaurant sharpening some knives in a cowboy hat.

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I ended up making it to Chinatown sometime in the late afternoon, but spent most of my time there up on the top floor of a seemingly abandoned parking garage that was taken over by squatters. It offered some pretty commanding views, and was the perfect place to watch the sun set over the city while listening to some kids having a pretty intense soccer match on the floor below me.

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After it got dark I decided to wander around some more, and of course had to stop for some satay every now and then. At 3 for a dollar how can you say no?

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Finally arriving back at my hotel, eager to get some rest for my next little mini adventure.

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The next day I arrived at the train station to buy a ticket for Chiang Mai. It was going to be a long ride (about 14 hours or so), so I decided to book another night train.

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As the sun set, my train pulled up and started loading passengers for departure.

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And that’s when the fun started.

I don’t think I mentioned this previously, but the night trains in Southeast Asia are a blast. They’re really the way to go when you need to travel long distances on the cheap. Not only do you save on hotel costs for the night, but the trains themselves are only $10-$25 a trip, you get to sleep for half the journey instead of being bored all day on a day train, and at night the restaurant cars turn into party cars full of travelers like myself. They’re a great place to meet people while saving both time and money.

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As the train approached Chiang Mai early the next morning, I barely even noticed my hangover with all the scenic views of lush, tropical countrysides and hazy mountains. It was also a bit cooler up here; a welcome reprieve from the hot, muggy city.

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After spending about a week and a half in congested Bangkok I felt a little R&R was in order. Most of my time up here in northern Thailand was spent lounging around drinking either fruit smoothies and rum, or fruit smoothies and vodka. I even had some “Black Cock”, the local Thai rice whiskey. Yea yea, I know. I’ll spare you the inappropriate jokes.

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Out back behind a temple I found what I imagine to be a monk house. Must have been laundry day.

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One temple had a Buddhist garden full of placards inscribed with various proverbs. This is one that stood out for me.

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I liked this scene for some reason. It reminded me of something out of a cool 80′s movie.

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Tuk tuk.

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At some point I hopped on a bus up to Chiang Rai (not to be confused with Chiang Mai, which is where I’ve been). I shot this out the window of the bus. This pregnant girl was riding in the bed of a two-seater pickup truck while two guys were in the cab.

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Now, at this point in my trip I was nearing the end of my 15-day visa and needed to find a way to renew it. Apparently when arriving by plane you’re given 30 days, but when arriving by land as I did, you only get 15. Luckily Burma was only a short bus ride away, so a quick hop over the border and back again would give me enough of an extension to last until my flight to Hong Kong.

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I didn’t venture any farther than the border town of Tachilek as I had to leave my passport with the customs officers at the border. To get an actual visa for Burma requires a visit in advance to one of their embassies, however a one-day pass is granted at select border crossings for the express purpose of visa renewals. Well, I believe the official reason is for shopping trips to the markets (or at least that’s what I was told to tell the border guards), but practically-speaking I believe that’s what most people use them for.

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So after a few hours spent walking around Tachilek, I was back across the border into Thailand and on my way back to Chiang Rai.

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When I got back I decided to check out the White Temple. It’s been under construction for the past 10 years, and from what I understand isn’t even halfway done. I’ll just let the pictures do the talking here.

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It was pretty unreal to say the least.

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Now that I got my visa renewed and spent some time relaxing up here in the northern regions of Thailand, I felt it was time to head back into the city.

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While waiting for my train, I snapped this pic of these kids being transported around the station on a luggage cart.

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Back in the city I hit the streets for some photography.

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This is a beautiful Thai girl I met by the name of Catalia. She didn’t speak English and I don’t speak Thai, but none of that seemed to matter too much.

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I don’t understand how anybody can make sense of their wiring system. It was like this everywhere.

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One of the red light districts during the day.

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One of the few rainy days I had on this trip so far.

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I planned on taking a lot of pictures like this of the buildings in Hong Kong which you’ll be seeing in my next post, but I saw this view from a nearby Skytrain station and couldn’t resist.

One day while walking around, I saw a nearby plume of smoke billowing into the sky. I started to walk toward it, and as I got closer, before long I heard sirens approaching with firetrucks whizzing by me and people running in all directions. I started to pick up the pace to see what was going on.

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As I arrived on the scene it was apparent that this was pretty serious. Bangkok is full of little quasi-villages; wood and sheet metal houses built practically on top of each other with narrow alleyways twisting between them. I hadn’t thought about it before, but if a fire starts in the middle of one of these places it wouldn’t take long before the entire development was burned to the ground, tossing hundreds of families out onto the streets with no place to go. Everybody seemed eager to help, so I jumped into the fray to do what I could.

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After a while they apparently got everything under control, and from what I could tell it didn’t seem like anyone was seriously injured. Just another crazy day in Bangkok!

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One evening I decided to grab a few drinks up on the top of the State Tower. Apparently this was one of the locations they used to shoot a scene from the Hangover 2. I haven’t seen the movie, but with views like this I can see why they would have shot here.

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This is where I spent my evening, mingling with fellow travelers. Looking over the railing gave me a straight-down view of the city from a staggering 63 floors up. That net around the bottom was hardly comforting, and was the only thing that would have stopped me from plummeting to my death had i leaned a little too far over.

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Another hazy day comes to an end.

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Girl enjoying a martini, overlooking Bangkok.

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Dining at its finest. You had to make reservations here at least a month in advance, and the menu didn’t have prices.

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And on the complete opposite end of the spectrum, here we have the red light district of Bangkok. Well, one of them anyway. This is Soi Cowboy, and was reminiscent of a scene out of the movie Blade Runner (except with a lot more half-naked Asian girls).

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These girls were handing out free beer. Of course it would have been rude to say no.

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This poor girl had to hold this sign up all night while nearly everyone that walked by wanted to take a picture. Naturally, I had to as well.

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Most of the clubs didn’t allow photography inside for obvious reasons, but this was one of the more tame clubs, so I guess the girls didn’t mind.

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I spent most of my nights in Bangkok just wandering the streets, sampling the food, meeting and photographing the various people and things I saw.

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Bangkok is a fine city during the day but it’s just so incredibly busy. It can get maddening walking around most places with all the people, motorbikes and of course the heat. And don’t even think about going into one of the shopping plazas in Silom. Every day the malls are ten times worse than Christmas Eve or Black Friday here.

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At night though, everything seems to settle down. The air gets a bit cooler, the sidewalks a bit emptier, and you’re really able to just relax and enjoy yourself.

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Of course there is still much excitement to be had, you just have to know where to look for it.

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This monk seemed to be taking a much needed break.

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When I was taking the train back into Bangkok from Chiang Mai, I noticed that along the tracks in the northern part of the city there was what looked like a makeshift little shanty town on both sides of the tracks. One night I decided to go check it out and met this guy there playing with at least a dozen kids. These people had literally nothing to their name, but were all as happy as can be.

Now, for better or for worse I seem to have an incredible sense of direction. Usually it’s a great thing to have, but every now and then It’d be nice to just have absolutely no idea where I am. So one evening in Bangkok I set out with the intention of getting as lost as possible. This was going to be no easy task, as I had plenty of maps of the city that I had been studying and using to navigate through my previous adventures, so I was going to have to step it up. I decided to hop on a random water taxi and see how far it could take me.

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After a good hour or so of speeding down this narrow canal away from the city, with the sun starting to dip over the horizon and confident that I had successfully gotten myself completely lost, I figured it was time to get out and start my adventure.

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Shortly after getting off the boat, I happened upon a large streetside market selling fresh fruits and vegetables.

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I stopped in to a local cafe for a quick bite to eat.

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I ended up finding a main road, so I tried to pop down a few random alleys to keep my currently-bewildered sense of direction in check.

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Right around here the unthinkable had occurred. The shutter on my Minolta X-570 was officially dead. Luckily I had a backup back at the hotel and I was leaving for Hong Kong in a day or two, which happens to be known for its second-hand camera markets, so it wasn’t a huge deal. I ended up wandering around for a few more hours completely lost and eventually hopped in a taxi to take me back home. The ride back in traffic took about 90 minutes and came to a grand total of $2.80. I still to this day have no idea where I went, but it remains as one of the more memorable nights I had here in Bangkok.

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And with that, the time had come for me to leave Thailand. As much as I didn’t want to go, I was really excited to finally see Hong Kong. The old streets of Kowloon, the high-tech skyscrapers on Hong Kong Island, the stilt-houses in the remote fishing villages on Lantau.. My time in Thailand was all I could have hoped for and more, but my trip wasn’t even half over yet and I still had so many amazing places left to explore.

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Malaysia

After I left Singapore I made my way through Malaysia. I only spent about 4 days here, with my time divided between Kuala Lumpur, several overnight trains and a stopover in Penang. After hopping on a night train from Johor Bahru across the border in Malaysia, I arrived in Kuala Lumpur just as the sun was rising.

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The Petronas Towers in downtown Kuala Lumpur. Each one of these towers is taller than the Empire State Building, and they were the tallest buildings in the world when they were built. They’re currently ranked at 6th tallest, and are just over half the height of the new tallest building, the Burj Khalifa in Dubai.

My time in Kuala Lumpur was spent mostly in the Chinatown area, although I did walk around the city quite a bit during the day. Chinatown was filled with curbside food carts serving satay, clay-pot chicken and a variety of other Malay dishes.

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I have to admit, at first I was a little jarred by the apparent complete lack of proper food safety here. My time spent some years back working in kitchens left me pretty apprehensive about eating food off carts full of raw and pre-cooked foods that essentially sat out in the sun all day. After hanging around and seeing how the satay was prepared and being offered a sample, I ended up giving in and trying my luck at this bit of culinary roulette, and boy am I glad I did.

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The meat was obviously very fresh, and the sauces served alongside the satay were what really made it for me. The spicy peanut sauce especially was unlike anything I’ve ever had before.

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I didn’t have a chance to try the clay-pot chicken, but hey, there’s always next time.

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My friend Rizal from Singapore mentioned to me that he comes up to Malaysia every so often solely for the food. I couldn’t imagine why at first since the food in Singapore was so awesome, but after roaming around seemingly endless streets and alleys full of carts like this I began to see what he was talking about.

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It seemed like pretty much everyone was eating at these carts, including the locals. I did catch this lone guy sitting in an otherwise-empty cafe, but I’m not even sure if he was having anything to eat.

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And with that I decided to call it a night, ready to spend the day in the city again tomorrow before hopping on another night train to Penang.

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I can’t imagine this guy was very comfortable, considering it looked like he weighed about 75lbs and was sleeping on solid rock.

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This was a rather odd sight. A relatively nice, new car parked in the middle of what appeared to be an abandoned, deteriorated house.

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I popped into a tattoo parlor and met some people from Nigeria here on holiday getting some ink done.

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This guy seemed to be all partied out at the reasonable hour of 11 o’clock AM. I don’t know if he had been there all night, but something tells me neither did he.

After wandering around aimlessly for the rest of the day, I headed on down to the train station and hopped on a train to the Penang/Butterworth station for a quick stopover on my way up to Thailand. I didn’t plan on spending much time there, but upon arriving I found the next train was sold out so I had to book one for the next evening and find a place to stay for the night. I had contemplated hopping on a ferry over to Penang Island, but I didn’t. I wish I had, because there really wasn’t much going on in the town of Butterworth.

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While trying to find a place to stay I happened upon this windowless, gutted building, which seemed to be full of squatters. After walking down street after street of similarly occupied windowless, gutted buildings I began to question my decision to stay here.

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I did end up finding a cheap room farther into town, but while laying in my bed I almost began to envy the squatters.

So after a surprisingly great night’s sleep, I hopped on my next train that would ultimately take me up to Thailand, where I’d be spending the next 3 weeks bumming around Bangkok and the northern region of Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai.

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Singapore

First up in my upcoming series of posts will be Singapore. For those of you that don’t personally know me, I spent this past winter backpacking around Asia. I started right after New Years in Singapore, spent about a week there before traveling up to Malaysia for a few days, and then spent about 3 weeks in Thailand between Bangkok and the Chiang Mai/Chiang Rai area. After that I took a quick plane ride out to Hong Kong where I spent a couple weeks, and then flew out to Japan to finish off my trip. I ended up spending 5 weeks total in Japan, starting in Osaka, hitting up Kobe, Kyoto, Hakone, Yokohama, Kawasaki, and finally Tokyo. I figured I’d start out in the hottest places, and slowly move north to the colder areas as the season ended. This ended up working out great because Singapore was an excellent place to get my feet wet in Asian culture. Most people in Singapore speak English, nearly all signs are in English and the city itself even had a very western feel to it. As my trip went on I got into progressively more eastern cultures, ending in Japan which probably would have been very difficult to start out in due to the severe lack of English-friendly amenities. Overall I couldn’t have been happier with the way everything came together.

Before I left on my trip I met a fellow photographer by the name of Rizal on flickr. We talked a bit before I left and planned to meet up once I got over there. Originally we had just planned to go out for a quick shooting session around Singapore, but between Rizal and his friends he introduced me to we ended up getting together almost every day I was there. He even brought me into the Arab Quarter to find a hookah lounge after I mentioned my affinity for shisha. Read on a bit for more on these guys.

I brought three cameras with me on this trip; two main cameras and a backup. The two main cameras were my 645 medium format rangefinder, the Fuji GS645S, and my Minolta X-570 SLR with a few lenses. The Fuji 645 has a fixed lens, being a 60mm f/4, and for the Minolta I brought my 50mm f/1.2, 28mm f/2.8 and 135mm f/3.5 lenses. I brought a little over 100 rolls of film with me, 72 being 35mm and 30 being medium format. I actually ended up running out in Japan and had to purchase film there for almost double what I paid back home. My entire film stock was Kodak Portra, with the 35mm split almost evenly between 160 and 400 speed, and the 120 split between 160, 400 and 800. I also brought a mini travel tripod with me which served me alright in Southeast Asia for the few times I wanted to use it, but once I started getting into more serious night photography over in Hong Kong I ended up purchasing a much larger and sturdier tripod over there. Oh, and my backup camera was a tiny little 35mm rangefinder, a Yashica Electro 35 CC with a 35mm f/1.8 lens. It came in handy a few times when I didn’t want to bring one of my larger cameras out with me, and for a few days when my Minolta’s shutter died in Bangkok. Well, that’s enough writing. On to the pictures.

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The Singapore Artscience Museum, in front of the downtown skyline and Marina Bay.

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The famous Marina Bay Sands Hotel. I had planned on going up to the top to get a shot of the skyline over the infinity pool, but I it was something like $20 for a ticket up there. That probably doesn’t sound like much, but with a budget of $40 per day (including food, transportation and accommodations) things like that can add up fast. I’m sure it’ll still be there next time I go. Anyway, I found an even better observation deck for 1/4 the price right down the street, which I’ll show you in a bit.

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They were having a choreographed light show with music over the bay. I’m not entirely sure, but it seemed like a nightly thing.

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This is the pedestrian bridge that extends over the entrance to the bay. It was cool-looking during the day (you can see it above, in the second image I posted), but definitely a lot more interesting at night.

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The Artscience Museum at night, from the boardwalk along the bay.

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Singapore’s version of the parking garage.

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This was one of the very first pictures I took upon arriving in Singapore.

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During the time I spent in Singapore, everyone was gearing up for the Chinese New Year. Chinatown especially was getting pretty crazy. Unfortunately I wouldn’t be sticking around for the celebration, but I can imagine it was intense.

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This is what it’s like being over 6 feet tall in Asia.

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If I remember correctly, these were some kind of coffee roasted nuts. They were quite tasty.

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Animal Parts. Looks like a beef heart in the dish there, oozing with fresh blood. Yum.

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I was pleasantly surprised at how friendly everyone was over there. People in Southeast Asia especially seemed to love having their picture taken.

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Especially in places like this I would expect people would prefer to be left alone, but nobody seemed to mind. Of course one of the main reasons why I travel in the first place is because I have a genuine passion for learning about and experiencing this kind of stuff, so hopefully that was the impression everybody got.

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From here it was a quick ride on the subway down the the port area.

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One of the things that got me interested in traveling to Singapore in the first place was the container port. By some measures it’s the largest in the world. Unfortunately all my attempts to gain access to the grounds were denied, so I had to settle for an aerial view from a nearby apartment complex.

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The apartment complex had an observation deck near the top which stretched around all seven buildings. It gave me a great 360 degree view of the entire city.

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Back on ground level, I was able to find some really cool architecture around the bay area.

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This scene was directly outside the front door of my hostel. Every time I would leave, I’d see it and want to take a picture, but always hesitated. Then by chance as I was leaving one morning this construction worker walked across, giving me just what I was hoping for to bring the image together.

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This was taken very early in the morning, just as the sun had risen. It looked like she was just beginning to set up shop for the day.

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My friend Rizal explained to me what this was all about. Apparently these are lottery tickets, similar to the Mega Millions here in America. However, instead of going to the store to pick your favorite numbers, these people would have all the tickets pre-printed and people would sift through them all to find ones which contained their numbers.

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Caught this beautiful sunset from the rooftop garden of a shopping mall on Orchard Road. That’s the moon up there.

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Took the night bus back.

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On the left is Rizal, and David’s on the right. These two guys took me out almost every day and showed me all around Singapore. Seriously, I never would have seen half the stuff I saw if it wasn’t for these guys. It just so happens that they are both excellent photographers as well. Rizal’s blog can be seen here, and his flickr here. David’s flickr can be found here.

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Thought this was a pretty quintessential picture of Singapore. Taken in Little India I believe, while it was probably pretty close to 90 degrees out. In January.

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I like to think these guys were going on vacation, but I don’t think that was the case.

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Rizal and friends brought me to this outdoor market dubbed the “Thieves Market”. Apparently years ago this was just what the name would imply, a place where thieves could fence their pilfered goods. It’s hard to imagine a thriving community of thieves in Singapore nowadays, and this market and ones like it have now evolved into being general flea markets.

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As night fell in Little India, things started to change..

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Apparently the inhabitants of Little India are mostly brought in to work on construction projects around the city. Young, able-bodied men are shipped in to work 6 days a week while their families remain back home. Their one day off, Sunday, is treated like a veritable holiday. They all take to the streets, and turn this little quarter into the male-only Indian version of Mardis Gras.

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These guys seemed to be taking a break from the madness.

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A couple of fellow travelers having some drinks in a back alley establishment.

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These guys were playing a game similar to pool, but instead of balls they used what seemed to be plexiglass discs, and instead of a cue they would just flick them with their thumbs. The powder was to reduce the friction of the table to ensure the discs would travel smoothly, and also to absorb the impact of the discs around the pockets in the corner, presumably to help ease them in.

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There were a bunch of these tables set up in this one area, with crowds of people all standing around watching.

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In case you can’t make out the fine print on that newspaper back there, it reads “Woman Accused of Sleeping with Father”. Interesting stuff.

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And that’s it for Singapore. I had a fantastic time here, but had only just begun on my journey throughout Asia. Join me next time for my quick jaunt through Malaysia while on my way to the bustling city of Bangkok.

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My Latest Trip to Europe

It’s been quite some time since I’ve updated this site, so I figured it was time for a redesign. I had pretty high hopes for Photosomnia back when I created it, but unfortunately it’s taken a backseat to my daily photoblog over at www.shuttermaki.com. Hopefully this will help breathe some new life into it, and motivate me to update it a little more often. To be honest, this site has taught me that while I still love the art of photography more than ever, my desire to write about it isn’t as great as I had hoped.

Now, on to the pictures. I recently took a trip to Europe spending about a week in Austria, a few days in Prague, and then ended up hiking around the Swiss Alps for a few days. This was quite the trip, and as you can imagine I have a ton of pictures to share. Normally when I go on a trip I’d just post the dozen or so images on my photoblog, but considering I have over 100 I needed to find a more efficient way to get these out for everyone that wants to see them.

All of these were shot on my Leica M6, the vast majority with my Zeiss 35mm f/2 Biogon, and a handful with my Leica 90mm f/4 Elmar C. I brought 3 different kinds of film on the trip with me, Kodak Ektar 100, Kodak Portra 400VC and Ilford HP5+. I’ll take you through my trip in chronological order as best I can remember, so without further ado here are some shots taken at the JFK and Zurich airports at the very start of my vacation. These were shot on HP5+ at ISO 400.

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I always shoot the first frame on a roll as a ‘throw away’ shot, just in case I haven’t wound it far enough to get past the burn, but I rather liked this shot for some reason.

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I always love the unique lighting and symmetry that you can only find in airports.

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This guy was in the midst of keeling over, presumably due to a heart attack.

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I had to wait a good 5 minutes for this shot. Of course there are dozens of people checking their flight info every second, except when I have my camera out.

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This particular baggage claim area seemed to be closed down. It was completely empty, so it looked a bit strange all lit up.

At this point I had arrived in Zurich, Switzerland, and had boarded a train to the city. Zurich airport is a good distance outside of the city itself, so the train station in the airport has trains departing roughly every 15 minutes that take you there. The Zurich train station is one of the largest stations I have been to so far, and while perhaps not the prettiest, it’s certainly one of the cleanest and most efficient.

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Every platform had a nice Swiss clock every hundred feet or so, and the trains were never so much as a second late.

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I was sort of in a rush to catch my next train, but since one of my main reasons for travel is photography I can always rationalize making time for some pictures.

It was about 8 or 9 in the morning at this point, so I headed out to my first destination, Innsbruck, Austria. I had seen some pretty cool pictures of this place online, it’s essentially an extremely picturesque Austrian city in a valley sandwiched between two mountain ranges. Apparently it’s a pretty popular ski resort town in the winter, and after spending some time there it’s easy to see why.

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After seeing these train/trolleys all throughout my stay in Austria I had grown accustomed to them, but this was my first time seeing one.  It was like a cross between a bus, subway and trolley, and it drove on tracks on the street.

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One thing I can tell you about Austrians, is they like their bicycles. Every city I went to was full of cyclists.

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I noticed after a while that there was a route that most of the cyclists seemed to be following on this particular stretch of road, so I was able to stand here and wait for one of them to come along and whiz right by me.

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The next day turned out to be beautiful, so I decided to shoot a roll of Portra.

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The architecture in a lot of these newer Austrian cities was fascinating. For the most part, they all have distinct ‘old towns’ and ‘new towns’, each with their respectively awesome architectures.

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Again, with the bikes.

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This is the picturesque city center in the Old Town of Innsbruck. Seeing pictures taken of this view was one of the main reasons why I decided to visit this beautiful town, and I can assure you it was even more impressive in person.

Next I had entertained the idea of stopping by Salzburg, but I decided to head straight out to Vienna, thinking I’d check it out on my way back if I had time. I have to say, Vienna was one of the nicest, cleanest, friendliest cities I have ever been to. If I was ever going to move to Europe, Vienna is where I’d want to live.

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I call this one “The Getaway”.

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Vienna had one of the most convenient and accessible public transit systems I had ever seen. Everywhere you look there were buses, subways, trams and trains, taking you any and everywhere you’d want to go.

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While wandering around the streets I had come upon the waterfront, where I found a bustling curbside market.

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These little newsstands were everywhere, they reminded me of something you’d see back in New York or Philadelphia.

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But perhaps even more prevalent were these fast food stands, offering kebabs, brats, fries and pizza for a few Euro each.

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This is the Austrian Parliament building on the Ringstraße.

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It is yet another example of the incredible architecture in Vienna, which is extremely varied in style ranging from Gothic to Baroque, Roman, Greek and modern.

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Speaking of architecture, I happened upon this strange building called the Hundertwasserhaus.

What trip to Vienna would be complete without a visit to the famous Vienna Opera House? During the months of July and August the Opera takes a break from performances and offers group tours, so I took this opportunity to check out this amazing venue.

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Definitely be sure to check out the full-res version of this panoramic view of the performance hall by clicking on the image.

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I really lucked out with the timing on this trip, as I arrived right in the middle of the annual outdoor Vienna Film Festival. The night I went they were playing independent animated movies on a gigantic 5+ story tall projector screen, with a food court set up with a full selection of world cuisine. At first I of course had a beer and bratwurst, and by this point I was really starting to become enamored with the locally brewed Ottakringer beer.

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By nightfall this place was absolutely packed with movie-goers, but for now this man seemed to be enjoying the peace and quiet.

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The festival had gone on all day, then they started playing the movies when the sun went down. Unfortunately it was a bit too dark for pictures.

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St. Stephen’s Cathedral in Vienna was an incredible sight to behold. It’s not every day you see something like this, but I’ll let the pictures do the talking here.

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As amazing as the exterior of this Cathedral was, it’s the interior that really caught most of my attention.

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Only having a 35mm lens with me, I had to take a couple pictures and stitch them together to get this ultra-wide viewpoint of the interior. This and the next 3 images are downsized, so if you click on them it’ll open a larger image in your browser.

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Be sure to check out the full-size version of this one.

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There were so many intricate details everywhere I looked, it’s hard to believe this entire structure, from the tallest spire to the smallest sculpture was handmade hundreds of years before there was even electricity.

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While we’re on the subject of incredible Gothic cathedrals, there is another, slightly smaller cathedral I found in Vienna known as the Votive Church. This one however was built in 1879 and is classified as Neo-Gothic, although it could be argued that it’s nearly as impressive than the much more famous St. Stephen’s Cathedral above.

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Unfortunately they were renovating most of the exterior, so this overexposed shot of the rear of the church is all you’re going to get out of me. If you want to see some better pictures of the front, check out this Google Image Search.

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After spending a few days in Vienna, I decided to head up to Prague. I was really excited to check out this fabled city, so I ticked off a day on my Rail Pass and started making my way to the Wien Meidling train station.

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Along the way I checked out the Belvedere Palace, which while beautiful, was a little smaller than I had anticipated.

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The Wien Meidling train station was one of the smaller stations in Vienna, but the only one with train to Prague (despite what the ÖBB website says).

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(Click on the image for the high-res version)

The first thing I had noticed while traveling through the Czech Republic was that everything looked abandoned and bombed-out. I’m a little too young to remember the cold war, but somehow this country reminded me of what I imagine it must have felt like. Communism ended here in November of 1989, but much of the country still has a very distinct ‘communist feel’ to it, if such a thing exists. Nevertheless, it was a very unique place, like nothing I had ever seen before.

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My first impression of Prague was one of amazement, particularly at the train station. Praha Hlvani was one of the coolest stations I have been in.

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I had to wait a bit for everyone to clear out to get this shot, but I think it was worth it. At this point in my trip I had done enough waiting around in train stations and whatnot to have picked up a pack of cigarettes to help pass the time. Now don’t get the wrong idea, I don’t smoke, but everyone else in Europe does. I was here to immerse myself into different cultures, so ‘when in Rome’, right?

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Check out the larger version of this pano by clicking on it.

As I left the train station, I started to get an idea of what this city was like. Cobblestone streets, Gothic spires and wrought-iron lanterns really set the mood. My first order of business was to just get lost in the twisting alleyways of the Old Town and Jewish Quarter, which was an experience in itself.

I didn’t get too many pictures at this point, due to the sheer number of tourists in this beautiful city. I had never seen anything like it. The entire Old Town district was absolutely packed with people. After a while I happened upon a cheap room, so I dropped my bag off and went out for dinner. The meal I ended up having was one of the most memorable things I have ever eaten. It was an entire pig’s knee on a mini spit, with a myriad of sides, garnishes and sauces. I washed this down with a Pilsner Urquell and then a Becherovka and tonic for a truly Czech experience.

That night I went out for a little stroll, but decided to head to bed early so I could get up before all the other tourists to see if I could get the city to myself for some pictures. This proved to be pretty successful, although for some reason I wasn’t feeling that inspired. I had hyped up Prague to be this amazing city in my mind, and with all the crowds, tourists and a few run-ins with some less-than-courteous locals I had a somewhat sour taste in my mouth. Nevertheless I tried to capture the wonderful atmosphere of the city at dawn while it was completely empty. Empty, of course, except for a couple skeevy prostitutes and some funny drunk kids from Belgium I met that were trying to catch Pigeons.

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Seeing the Charles Bridge completely empty was almost surreal, compared to the day before when I could barely make it across due to all the tourists.

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One thing I noticed that the Europeans do very differently than Americans, is they will not cross the road unless there is a walk signal on the lights. I presume this is due to European traffic laws being much different than ours, namely the fact that over there, cars have the right of way, not pedestrians.

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Apparently this pigeon had the same idea as me, trying to beat the crowds.

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Now I’ve never been much of a morning person, so sunrises are few and far between for me. Not to mention they’re much more likely to be seen at the end of a long night as opposed to the beginning of a new day. Being able to capture pictures like this certainly is some pretty good motivation though. Normally I’d try to catch the sunset, but sunsets in Prague are completely different due to the aforementioned tourist infestation.

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I heard a story regarding the man who designed this astronomical clock while I was over in Prague. Apparently the officials who contracted him to build it ripped out his eyes after he was done, so he would be unable to build a duplicate in other cities. The man, obviously depressed at not only being permanently blinded, but also due to the fact that he can no longer practice his craft, threw himself into the inner-workings of the clock rendering it useless. If true, this is a pretty amazing story.

After Prague I decided to head back to Austria, to a city called Linz which was situated perfectly to give me relatively quick access to the cities of Melk and Hallstatt. I only spent about 12 hours in Linz, but from what I saw it looked like a very nice city. In 2009 Linz was voted as the Cultural Capital of all of Europe, so apparently it is. When I make it back to Austria someday I’m definitely going to stop by and really check this place out.

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These kids were just sitting on the steps with a pile of empty pint-sized bottles in front of them. Keep in mind it was roughly 10 AM at this point.

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At the top of the steps was this really cool modern sculpture. I had entertained the idea of sliding down it, but figured there was a pretty good chance I would have regretted that decision pretty fast.

At this point I hopped on the train to Melk for a day trip to see the world-renowned Melk Abbey. It’s basically a gigantic monastery that sits perched atop a hill, overshadowing a town not much bigger than the Abbey itself. First I’ll give you a virtual tour of the exterior of the Abbey, then I’ll take you inside where you really get an idea of how amazing this place really is.

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Unfortunately I wasn’t able to get an aerial view of this gigantic structure to give you an idea of how big it really is, but a bit of Googling should take care of that. Inside this architectural masterpiece were some of the most beautiful, ornate rooms I have ever seen. From the entrance I walked down this long hallway called “The Emperor’s Gallery”.

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This hallway led to the Marble Hall. There wasn’t much in the Marble Hall, but it was quite remarkable regardless.

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Next up was the reason why I was here, the library. This is listed as one of the top 10 libraries in the entire world, and it’s not hard to see why.

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Everything about this library was incredible. The attention to detail was crazy, everything seemed to be covered in gold, and I can only imagine how old and rare all these books are.

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I almost didn’t want to leave the library, thinking that it was essentially the reason why I was even here in the first place. Boy was I in for a surprise.

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I descended the spiral staircase not knowing what I would find at the bottom..

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Somehow, the Melk Abbey was able to outdo itself once again with the most amazing church I have ever seen.

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Once again, the attention to detail was simply astonishing.

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After touring the Monastary there was a garden off to the side which I decided to check out.

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It was the perfect place to relax and enjoy this warm, beautiful day.

After strolling around the gardens for a while for a while I decided to head back into town. The town of Melk itself was a rather small town, and despite the obvious draw of the Abbey, remained relatively free of tourists. This was certainly welcome after my time in Prague, so I spent some time walking around photographing this quaint little stop on my tour through Austria.

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The town has a small, lively center full of cafés and stores, and has many bike and walking paths along the Danube River, where it’s situated.

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Even though the town had an old, authentic feel to it, just like the rest of Austria there was an eclectic mix of new, modern architecture thrown in.

After Melk I had decided to make my way down to Hallstatt. The Hallstatt train station is actually located on the other side of the lake from the town itself, so upon arrival you have to take a ferry to complete your journey. Unfortunately, the ferry stops running around 7 or so, which meant I wasn’t going to make it that night. I had planned on arriving in nearby Obertraun, spending the night, and then taking a bus or ferry there in the morning.

Well, I arrived in Obertraun just after sunset, and was in the process of finding accommodations when I noticed a sign saying Hallstatt was a mere 5 kilometers away. I had just spent the last 4 or 5 hours on a train, so was eager to stretch my legs and go for a nice, scenic walk along the lake. Unfortunately it was a bit overcast and the sun had already set, so I just left my camera in my bag and soaked in the scenery while making the hour-long trek into town.

Once I got there I spent the next 2 hours trying to find a room. All the hotels were booked so I grabbed a bed at the local hostel for a mere 14 Euros. I then went into town for some dinner and a few drinks, and ended up chatting with a few of the locals at the brat stand. The next morning the weather was absolutely perfect so I got up early, loaded my camera with some Ektar and hit the town.

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This is probably the ‘obligatory’ Hallstatt picture, the one found on all the postcards and pamphlets, so I of course had to take one myself.

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Navigating through this picturesque hillside town involved going up and down lots and lots of stairs, but afforded me the opportunity to capture some nice aerial shots of the town and surrounding lake and mountains.

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The early morning light filtering through the mountains was certainly a beautiful sight.

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I normally save my ‘street’ style photography for city shooting, but I couldn’t help myself here.

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I had assumed real estate in this town was rather pricey, but seeing this shiny new Ferrari parked in one of the driveways gave me a little bit of perspective.

After shooting that roll of Ektar, I loaded up some high speed black and white to take in the bone house, but I had to wait around for about a half an hour till it opened, so I shot some of it around town in the meantime.

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By this time the bone house had finally opened for the day.

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Hundreds of years ago the residents of the town of Hallstatt had thought up a way to deal with the problem of not having enough space for a large cemetery. After they had been buried for 10 or 20 years, they would exhume the bodies, clean and bleach the skull and bones, and then decorate them and place them in the bone house. They haven’t placed any new bones in there in roughly 50 years, so nowadays it’s more of a tourist attraction than anything.

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Each person’s name was written on his forehead, it was sort of creepy to be honest.

At this point I was deciding whether or not I should spend the day in Hallstatt or start heading out to Switzerland, which is where I would be finishing off my trip. To get to where I was staying in Switzerland from Hallstatt was going to take quite some time, so I had planned on just getting as close as I could that day, getting a room for the night where ever I wound up, and then completing the journey the next morning.

I figured if I left around noon I could make it as far as Bern in Switzerland, and then just take the short train ride and gondola up to Gimmelwald when I woke up, so that was my decision.

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Caught this nice couple just checking out the scenery on the boat ride out to Obertraun as I was leaving Hallstatt.

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This pano is downsized, be sure to check out the larger version by clicking on it.

Now, unfortunately due to a series of train delays and a quick stopover for a meal, I ended up not getting as far as I would have liked. At around 11 PM I made it out to Bregenz in Austria, which is right on the border with Switzerland, but unfortunately there was a festival in town that day so all the hotel rooms were booked. I took the last train of the night headed to a town called Feldkirch in hopes of finding a room there. For some reason the train stopped halfway through its route however, leaving me in a tiny little residential town called Götzis.

With not a hotel in sight and a torrential downpour / thuderstorm outside I had begun mentally preparing myself for an inevitably miserable night’s sleep at the train station. By some stroke of luck however, there was one last unscheduled train that had decided to stop at the station roughly 45 minutes later. I didn’t know where that train was going, nor did I care. Anywhere would be better than where I was. It turns out the train was going to Feldkirch, so I ended up getting a room in an extremely seedy hotel there, all the while wondering if I would have been better off sleeping on a bench back at the station. Everything turned out just fine though, and the next morning I made it to Switzerland in one piece.

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When I arrived in Switzerland it was cloudy and overcast. I had a few shots of Portra left in my camera from Hallstatt, so I finished that off and then tossed my red filter on and started shooting some HP5.

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There were these little sheds scattered all around the mountainside, with streams and waterfalls every couple hundred meters.

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The town I was staying in is called Gimmelwald, which is roughly 4500 feet above sea level. This meant I was way above most of the clouds.

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They had these tripod-like contraptions set up along certain stretches of the mountainside, which were used to prevent avalanches.

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This was the trail that led from Gimmelwald to Mürren, which I walked each day to go to the grocery store for food and supplies. Although I went on plenty of hikes during my stay in the Alps that spanned much greater elevations, this hike was particularly bad because it was just one steady incline the entire way. A lot of the bigger hikes would go up and down, and would level off at some points so you had a chance to catch your breath and recuperate. There was a gondola that went between the towns but cost 4 Euro each way, so I probably saved about $40 by walking.

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At this point I decided to head back to the Hostel and have a few drinks with some of the other travelers I had met earlier in the day. When I woke up the next day it was overcast again, but the next few days were supposed to be beautiful so most of it was spent indoors planning out the hikes I was going to be going on (and of course drinking some more).

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I headed out of the Mountain Hostel where I was staying at around 6 in the morning, and made my way down through the Lauterbrunnen Valley up to Wengen, where I would eventually find my way up to Männlichen. Männlichen was a mountain that sits right in between the two valleys in the region, which are both in the shadows of three gigantic Alps, the Eiger, Mönch and the Jungfrau. The view from atop this mountain was incredible to say the least.

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From there I started the hike down to Kleine Scheidegg, which was just one breathtaking view after another.

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There were also a bunch of gigantic cows just grazing all over the mountain.

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This is a shot of the other valley, the Grindelwald Valley. I never ended up making it down there, which I would have liked given some better weather, but there’s always next time.

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There were a few houses dotting the landscape, I can’t imagine what it would be like living in one of them.

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There were some huge clouds rolling into the Grindelwald Valley, which made for some pretty intense scenery.

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But the weather changes so fast, as soon as they had arrived they were gone. This is a great shot of the Eiger too, can you imagine people climb that steep, almost vertical north face?

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At this point I had made it down to Kleine Scheidegg, which sits at the base of the Eiger, Mönch and the Jungfrau. This ‘town’ basically just consists of a hotel, restaurant and a train station. Apparently it’s a popular jumping-off point for a lot of serious mountain climbers.

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I decided to hike from here down to Wengen. There were a number of trails, some more scenic than others, so I chose the trail that straddles the base of the 3 mountains.

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This turned out to be a great idea, as it presented me with the greatest view of the mountains yet.

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This is another one of those downsized panos, you don’t wanna miss the high-res version of this one.

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This trail involved a bit of wilderness as well.

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The weather on the Lauterbrunnen side of the mountains started off beautiful, perfect for some landscape photography of the mountains. Check out the full-res version of this and the next pic too.

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Some clouds started to roll in as my hike went on, but I have to admit, they were looking pretty cool.

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After a few more pics I decided to take the train back from the Wengenalp station back to Wengen. The rest of the hike was basically through a forest, and didn’t offer much in the way of scenery.

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When I got back to the Hostel I planned on just taking my boots off, having some drinks and lying down for a bit, due to the exhausting nature of all the hiking I had spent my day doing. After about 15 minutes of relaxation, I realized that I was in the Swiss Alps, and every second spent sitting on my ass doing nothing would be regretted, so I was back out the door on another, slightly lower-key hike.

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It was getting late by this point, so I didn’t venture too far from where I was staying. Luckily there are tons of hiking trails that start right outside my hostel’s doorstep, one of the main reasons I decided to set up camp in the small town of Gimmelwald. I ended up hiking through Mürren and made my way up to Allmendhubel. I attempted to take the funicular back down, but ended up getting slightly lost due to not bringing a map of all the different hiking trails.

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I did end up finding the funicular, but I was already most of the way back down the mountain.

At this point my trip was about done, I had one day left but had to be on my plane home by 3:30 pm, so there wasn’t much time for anything besides getting to the airport which was a good 4 hours away. I was definitely sad to have to go so soon, this vacation was way too short, but I was also excited to get home and go through all my pictures. At the time I’m writing this I have been home for 3 weeks now and am just about to finish up developing and scanning my last 2 rolls of film. Then of course I will have to start developing and scanning the 6 rolls of HP5 I shot in New York City the other day, which will hopefully be another blog post for another day.

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Return to Iron Horse

Since my last Iron Horse post I have made two more trips, shooting mostly black and white film with a little digital thrown in. These trips were much more successful than the first, as I’m sure my results will show. It was a little disappointing however to find that they had removed all the buses from the repair yard. Despite this, some great new pictures were had in exploring parts of this complex that I had skipped the first time around.

I only used 2 lenses for these trips, my Canon 24mm 2.8 and Sigma 50mm 1.4 primes, which I would interchange between my Eos-1 and my 5D. First I will display a few of my digital shots from my first return trip, all of which were shot with the 50.

The first two were shot in what seemed to be the employee break room, which according to the calendar in the second image hasn’t been used since 1986. The next two were shot in a wrecked passenger train found in the woods. It looked to me like there had been a pretty rough train accident, and they just decided to gut the train and haul the shell off to sit here and rot in the woods. Like I mentioned earlier I shot mostly film this time around, so here are the rest of the images from the first trip. All of these are taken on either HP5+ pushed to 1600, or Neopan 1600.

We had found an entire section of the building used to store decades of meticulous documentation, some of which dated back over half a century. There were stacks upon stacks of filing cabinets and boxes literally overflowing with everything from payroll info, work orders, written estimates, blueprints, even disciplinary slips written up against the workers. Most of it has suffered from heavy water damage however, from decades of being exposed to the elements through leaky ceilings and smashed-out windows. For some reason there was also a corner of the building which contained a bunch of ordinary home furniture, including a bureau, some couches and a few cast-iron bed frames. We even happened upon a rusted-out cab to what appeared to be a 50′s-era pickup truck.

My next trip was even more productive than the last, with roughly the same ratio of digital to film shots taken. I had entertained the idea of leaving the digital at home, but sometimes there are just shots that I feel need some color, and I’d rather take the chance of coming over-prepared than regret leaving equipment at home once I got there. Case-in-point: I have brought my Canon 70-200 f/4 L IS with me every time I have been to Iron Horse, however I have never once taken it out of the bag. You can bet I’ll be bringing it with me next time I go too. So without further ado, here is a small selection of the digital shots I took during my latest Iron Horse outing.

Lastly, I have my film shots from this trip. I took only 2 rolls this time out, but it seems I am getting pickier with the shots I am taking, as a much larger percentage of them were keepers than my previous film shoots. Recently I have been finding this a lot actually, and I attribute it to the realization of how much time, money and effort it actually takes to buy, shoot, develop, scan and then process all the film I shoot. While this may turn some people off, and is probably the reason why most people shoot digital over film, it is actually the reason why I love film so much. No matter how much I tell myself that I can spend the same amount of concentration and patience when composing my digital shots, I always seem to get better compositions when shooting film. Also you really can’t beat the properties of film when shooting things like this, the dynamic range, contrast, grain and detail simply cannot be reproduced in Photoshop.

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Sakura Zensen

Well, the cherry blossoms are currently blooming, and I figured, what better time to photograph them? They are only in full bloom for a couple weeks, and I’m sure I don’t have to tell you, they are quite beautiful. I tried a couple different techniques here, the first of which was using my Sigma 50mm with a very shallow depth of field, so most of these shots were taken between f/1.4 and 2.8. My 5D was also used for all of these. I had contemplated using film, but I didn’t, so here are the first of the digital shots with the Sigma.

The next gallery contains a few images using first my 24mm f/2.8 prime, and then my 70-200 f/4 L. I purchased the 24mm about a few weeks ago to replace my Sigma 12-24mm. The Sigma was an awesome lens, it just didn’t really fit my needs. I don’t typically use a lot of wide-angle stuff in my photography, and like to travel light, so the large and very heavy Sigma got left home most of the time, collecting dust on my shelf. It was also extremely wide at 12mm, to the point where composition really takes a back seat to subject matter. Luckily I was able to find a good home for it with artist Saturnin, whose website can be found at www.saturnin.com. The 24mm f/2.8 prime lens is much smaller, extremely light, 2 stops faster, and even a little sharper, so I now take it with me everywhere I go.

After taking these vibrant, full-color images, I decided to switch it up and go for some black and whites. The first two images were taken in full color with the images from above, but were edited in Photoshop to mimic a deep red, or even infrared filter on black and white film. To do this, I used the Channel Mixer adjustment tool, clicked the Monochrome box on the bottom to desaturate the image, and then tweaked the individual RGB channels. To darken the sky so much, I lowered the Blue channel by 100%, and compensated by bumping up the Green and Red channels by 50% each. The red channel was at 100% originally, so that brought it up to 150%. This effectively blacked out the once-blue sky, and turned the light pink cherry blossoms completely white.

The rest of the images were taken with a Red 25 filter on my Sigma 50mm, still using the 5D. This resulted in the digital images being completely red, but after desaturating them and giving them a quick levels and contrast adjustment, I was left with what you see here. To be honest I could have probably gotten the same look by just doing the Channel Mixer setting above, with the values left at defaults with Red at 100%, but I like doing as much of my photography as possible in-camera. 95% of the pictures I post on my site only receive a quick levels, white balance and/or contrast adjustment.

If I get a chance to shoot some more of the cherry blossoms before the flowers all fall off next week I will update this post, so stay tuned.

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My First Time At Iron Horse

There is an old abandoned train repair facility in my hometown of Billerica, Massachusetts originally used by B&M railroads. It closed down some years ago, and now functions primarily as an MBTA graveyard for old buses and train parts. Last fall a friend of mine recommended I go check it out, as it was fairly easy to get into, and was very photogenic. The day before I went I had just received a rather large order from www.keh.com, comprised of several old FD mount lenses, an old Canon A-1, and my current favorite, the Eos-1 EF mount film body. This actually turned out to be an issue because along with my Rebel XT, I now had 3 cameras to shoot with this day. The Canon A-1 was loaded up with Reala 100 color film using my 28mm 2.8, which I later realized I wasn’t a huge fan of, the Eos-1 with Neopan 1600 and my Canon 50mm 1.8, and the Rebel XT was using my Sigma 17-70 zoom lens. Since this was my first time using film since my old Minolta XG-1 days, most of my film shots were also taken with the digital. Turns out this wasn’t really necessary, as I was very happy with how they came out.

Now I took these right before Thanksgiving of 2008, and at this time of year in New England it starts to get very cold. If I remember correctly it was in the 30s this day, and was quite windy. This wouldn’t have been so bad as we were inside most of the time, but in order to get there we had to park at an apartment complex about a mile away and walk along the train tracks that led into the place. It wasn’t so bad coming in, but we left as it was getting dark, at which point the temps had dropped to below freezing.

The first gallery is from the digital camera. All but the last of these were taken outside, where they keep all the decommissioned MBTA buses. According to my friend most of these were all pretty new to the facility, and this was apparent due to the relative lack of graffiti covering them. The last bus you see has been there for a while, and had some amazing artwork on its side.

Next up are my film shots. Most of these are from my Neopan roll, save for the last two which were taken with the Reala. I didn’t like most of my Reala shots from this day, and I’m attributing that to a combination of the 28mm focal length which I have never been a huge fan of, and I also felt that the colors from the film weren’t very complimentary to the location. If I could reshoot these, I would use a wider focal length, and some black and white film. I am very happy with my Neopan shots though, and love the grain and contrast that this film consistently provides. Even though it is 1600 speed film, I routinely use it in full sunlight because I love the look it gives me.

It was mostly empty inside the huge building, with a couple of small rooms along the side. One of these rooms contained the aptly-named “beer-fridge”, due to some graffiti on its door which has since been covered by another, less photogenic tag. This room was very nicely lit by a rather large skylight, and the paint was literally falling off the walls. This seems to have been an employee break room back in the day, but now that the floor is covered in moss and chunks of lead paint (and oddly enough a few used condoms), the last thing I would want to do in here is eat my lunch.

This was one of my first urbexing adventures, and while it was a great learning experience I feel like I only scratched the surface of the great photographic potential of this location. I plan on making a return trip to Iron Horse soon, now that the weather is finally getting nice again. I plan on shooting solely with my Eos-1 this time, although I may bring my 5D along just in case.

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